Stephen Jones, chapeaux d'artiste
The man of 1000 hats, Stephen Jones.
Eiffel Tower hat by Stephen Jones from “Chapeaux d’Artiste” at the Palais Galliera 2024
My most recent trip to Paris was during the opening of the newest exhibition at the Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode, Stephen Jones, Chapeaux d’Artiste. I was invited to the press preview and got to see it before the general public. As I was early for the appointment, I actually got to see it with only a handful of people around, which was quite a privilege as I expect this show to be very busy now that it’s open. One of the best things about visiting a fashion exhibition is finding another piece of the puzzle of fashion history, and Stephen Jones is definitely a corner-piece.
He began his millinery at an early age during the punk movement in England, just when the New Romantics established their own subculture based on the glam of artists like David Bowie and Roxy Music and featuring the music of Spandau Ballet and Visage. Being a student at Central Saint Martens and then a trainee at the Maison Lachasse in London, he had opportunities to reimagine hat-making and experiment with some of his most fashion-forward friends in London who were frequenting the coolest clubs like future Culture Club frontman Boy George. He eventually set up a small shop in the basement of a popular clothing store, PX, in Covent Garden. Working in a metier that was societally in decline placed him as an outlier and allowed him to be hyper-creative in his singular specialization. He quickly became the go-to person in London, where there was still a tradition to adorn one’s head at special functions or as a youth using creative headwear to reimagine a bygone era. with a modern sensibility.
Schiaparelli hats by Stephen Jones at Chapeaux d’Artiste expo at the Palais Galliera.
This exhibition focuses mainly on his work in Paris, which is part of the museum's mandate since it's the only one explicitly dedicated to French fashion. It is a dense expo following the eras of his collections, from his early days at school to his interpretations of hats from famous French fashion houses like Schiaparelli, Dior, and the haute couture feather house of Maison Fevrier, to name a few. The trademark wit and extravagance spanning the breadth of Jones’s work are wonderfully represented, showing his remarkable versatility of style and his mastery of materials. One of my favourites was the Schiaparelli hats from recent collections by Daniel Roseberry.
Just when you think there couldn’t possibly be any more hats, you turn a corner to reveal the last section featuring his work in the context of their accompanying garments. Jones has worked with a wide variety of designers like Vivienne, Westwood, Rei Kawakubo, Marc Jacobs, Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier, where he made his foray into the Paris scene. There is a very large section representing his over 28 years as the head of couture Millinery at Christin Dior, having worked with John Galliano (both for his eponymous line and his extravagant Dior couture shows), Raf Simons, and the current creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri. While it wasn’t operational at the press preview, there is an interactive photo booth at the end where you can take a photo of yourself in one of Jones’s creations virtually, either emailed to you for free or printed for posterity for €3.
One of the most enjoyable parts was how the curators used music to contextualize his early work in the first section. It seemed like a poetic and clever way to convey Jones’s realization that a lifetime of work in collaboration with the world’s biggest fashion houses remains autobiographical. It also makes the experience more relaxed than the silence usually expected in a museum. You can find the playlist on Spotify, which I think is quintessential, especially if you like early 80s electronic and pop music. You can also find it on their YouTube channel, along with videos of Stephen Jones speaking about his work and even a preview of the exhibition.
Chapeax d’Artiste at the Palais Galliera 2024
The press notes are available on the Museum’s website, which you can find available as a download. I enjoy a museum experience more when I get background information about the artists and the context in which they created their work. A deeper understanding builds connections between seemingly disparate moments in history, and that’s what I enjoy about seeing the work of the curators, scenographers, and installers, so I encourage you to read more about it here. The exhibition is on until March 16, 2025, so if you are heading to Paris, don’t miss it!
Quick reminder! I am available to consult for your next visit and am happy to help you plan the best itinerary possible to make the most of your time. From a quick phone call to a thoroughly planned and booked multi-day experience with accompanying maps, you’ll benefit from my expertise. Please email me here for more information and to connect!