Stephen Jones, chapeaux d'artiste
The man of 1000 hats, Stephen Jones.
Eiffel Tower hat by Stephen Jones from “Chapeaux d’Artiste” at the Palais Galliera 2024
My most recent trip to Paris was during the opening of the newest exhibition at the Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode, Stephen Jones, Chapeaux d’Artiste, and I was invited to the press preview to see it before it opened to the general public. As I was early for the appointment, I actually got to see it with only a handful of people around, which was quite a privilege as I expect this show to be very busy now that it’s open. One of the best things about visiting a fashion exhibition is finding another piece of the puzzle of fashion history, and Stephen Jones is definitely a corner-piece.
He began his millinery at an early age during the punk movement in England, just when the New Romantics established their own subculture based on the glam of artists like David Bowie and Roxy Music and featuring the music of Spandau Ballet and Visage. As a student at Central Saint Martens and then a trainee at the Maison Lachasse in London, he had opportunities to reimagine hat-making and experiment on some of his most fashion-forward friends in London, like future Culture Club frontman Boy George, who were frequenting the coolest clubs. Jones eventually set up a small shop in the basement of a popular clothing store, PX, in Covent Garden. Working in a metier that was societally in decline placed him as an outlier and allowed him to be hyper-creative in his singular specialization. He quickly became the go-to person in London for both the upper class, whose tradition is to wear hats at special functions and the rebellious youth who would use his creative headwear to reimagine a bygone era.
Schiaparelli hats by Stephen Jones at Chapeaux d’Artiste expo at the Palais Galliera.
This exhibition focuses mainly on his work in Paris, which is part of the museum's mandate since it's the only one in Paris generally focused on French fashion. It is a dense expo that follows the eras of his collections, from his early days at school to his interpretations of hats from famous French fashion houses like Schiaparelli, Dior, and the haute couture feather house of Maison Fevrier, to name a few. Jones’s trademark wit and extravagance span the breadth of his work and is wonderfully represented, showing his remarkable versatility of style and mastery of materials. One of my favourites was the Schiaparelli hats from recent Haute Couture collections by Daniel Roseberry, especially the massive wheat-trimmed millinery from HC Fall 2022.
Just when you think there couldn’t possibly be any more hats, you turn a corner to reveal the last section featuring his work in the context of their accompanying garments. Jones has worked with a slew of designers like Vivienne Westwood, Rei Kawakubo, Marc Jacobs, Claude Montana, Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier, et.al, all houses where he made his foray into the Paris scene. There is a very large section representing his over 28 years as the head of couture Millinery at Christian Dior, including John Galliano (both for his eponymous line and his extravagant Dior couture shows), Raf Simons, and the current creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri. While it wasn’t operational at the press preview, there is an interactive photo booth at the end where you can take a photo of yourself in one of Jones’s creations virtually, either emailed to you for free or printed for posterity for €3.
One of the most enjoyable parts was how the curators used music to contextualize his early work in the first section. It seemed like a poetic and clever way to convey Jones’s realization that a lifetime of work in collaboration with the world’s biggest fashion houses remains autobiographical. It also makes the experience more relaxed than the silence usually expected in a museum. You can find the quintessential 80s playlist on Spotify and their YouTube channel. There are also some cute videos of Stephen Jones speaking about his work and even a preview of the exhibition.
Chapeax d’Artiste at the Palais Galliera 2024
The press notes are available on the Museum’s website, which you can find available as a download for you to read. I always enjoy a museum experience more when I get the background information about the artists and the context in which they created their work. You can explore the links between moments in history that may seem unrelated, thanks to the work done by curators, scenographers, and installers, and I encourage you to learn more about it here. The exhibition is on until March 16, 2025, so if you are heading to Paris, don’t miss it!
Quick reminder! I am available to consult for your next visit and am happy to help you plan the best itinerary possible to make the most of your time. From a quick phone call to a thoroughly planned and booked multi-day experience with accompanying maps, you’ll benefit from my expertise. Please email me here for more information and to connect!